Offshore Low Creates A Great Swell For SurfersJune 4th, 2014 at 6:16 pm by Jeff Edmondson WAVY under Weather
If you are a surfer or bodyboarder the ENE swell felt more like a hurricane swell than a traditional swell, so what caused it?
This past weekend we had strong northeast winds that helped to develop the waves. Then by Monday an area of high pressure moved overhead which shut down that wind. An offshore low, which wasn’t particularly strong, created a ENE swell for VB and the OBX. This area of low pressure basically stayed over the same area for a few days which created a nice fetch of waves for our area. In the video you can almost see how the spinning low almost resembles a hurricane. I had a chance to get out in the water on Monday in Croatan, and I observed 3-5ft waves during the incoming tide. If you were lucky enough to get to the OBX on Tuesday, conditions were good and fun for the surfers around the popular breaks.
As most of the surfers know, offshore winds are what they want for clean waves. You can see the pictures from Mickey McCarthy how clean the waves were on the OBX. The waves are quickly fading today and as of this point nothing exciting is expected to develop in the near term.
I will keep an eye on our local wavewatch model for any updates. Remember, during our newscasts we will show the area Surfline.com camera’s and give you the beach forecast. Finally, water temperatures are still getting warmer! For the VB Oceanfront we are at 66-68°. The OBX is 69-72°.
Meteorologist Jeff Edmondson